thegoldenageoffashion

1912 project

The scallop ski…

The scallop skirt is now complete. The cutting out went a little awry as the lines on the pattern didn’t seem to match up the further down the rows you went so a little re drawing was called for.

The trickiest bit was edging the scallop and I used a brown bias tape. Maybe I should have tacked as well as pinned but as it’s only a mock-up it looks ok. I used a cream linen blend from the skirt as it could be worn and good old fashioned curtain lining for the scallop facing. I think I could have done with whole skirt lining/facing to give it some structure. The buttons were faux horn and looked really nice and as I hate hand sewing buttons it was a real labour of love. I finished the side seams with a bound finish and sewed down the waist band facings on each seam I finished the fastening with a hook and bar. It’s a bit odd as the opening is not on the side but a little way to the back of the skirt which seems unusual for us as does the very high waist band. At the waist it measure 34 inches. I hand stitched the hem. All in all it only took a couple of hours to sew and actually looks very nice! I am struggling to get word press to upload some photos but you can see them at my other blog and on the flikr display

http://briggsy-throughthelookingglass.blogspot.com/

scallop skirt

Ive cut it out in a cream linen fabric and am going to face the scallops in a brown silk lining instead I think rather than applying a bias finish to them. however busy work schedule ahs set me back a bit so hope to resume at the weekend

The challenge pattern

 

After making the relevant adjustments to fit my ample bosom I pondered the lace insertion techniques. I have never done this before so tackled the shorter shoulder ones first. These went well. I pinned the lace to marks on the fabric sewed down each side- turned the fabric over then slit the fabric between the tramline of stitching and then rolled back and finished the seams. There is not a lot of fabric so in hindsight I may have used a Zig zag stitch just to anchor the seam. Here are the pictures      

Seams. The middle long insertion- I marked on the fabric where the top of the lace should finish and did the same approach just clipping the seam at the top so that it would press flat. On the “side” seam I sewed the seam to the top of the placement then tacked the rest of the seam so that the seam would reopen easier after the lace had been applied. I tried 2 finishing techniques. On one seam I pressed the seam open then applied the lace- it allowed for a nice fold over of fabric to finish the seam as the edges were automatically enclosed. I also tried on the other one pushing the seam fabric to one side as I sewed down the edge of the lace so that it  wasn’t caught in the stitching – and then the opposite way when sewing down the other side. I then folded the finished edges under to create a seam when finished – both ways worked well.

 

I made a mistake on the top layer of lace access the bodice by applying it to each piece individually- DON’T ist really hard to match up the seams do it after construction. The second strip I did after construction and it worked really well. I sewed all the other seams together as normal.

l.

The insertion lace and the edging lace went together really well and I used large bobbin needle to thread the ribbon through

 

The back I finished the edges and machine stitched buttonholes

For the hem I was running out of lace so it wasn’t as full as I would have liked. I marked the halfway point on the flounce with tailors chalk then applied the lace along the line doing the insertion as before. Its very time consuming as each seam is sewn essentially four times.

I hand pleated and applied to the hem of the slip. I’m afraid I cheated a little and used a selvedge edge (shock horror) in order to minimise bulk. I then applied a layer of lace to finish off the join- this was just applied to the seam join and not inserted due to the many layers of the pleat etc.

 

The while thing took about 6 hours from start to finish. It’s made in cream cotton (curtain lining its cheap and plentiful) and a creamy coloured lace (it looks peach on the picture) again this was cheap and off my local market I bought four 3 metre bundles for 60 pence each.

The ribbon beading was 50 pence a metre and the ribbon the same

 

I wanted to keep the costs down as it’s only a run through.

 

In the end it’s wearable muslin that could be used for the stage and I’m really pleased I learned some new techniques

challenge pattern

tissue fitting

tissue fitted and did a FBA and lengthened waist by 1 inch

cutting out with alterations

packing away

packing away

just making room for new stuff packing away costumes recently made for Oliver! this was for nancy

other stuff

Im going to keep my other stuff seperate but this is my other blog

http://briggsy-throughthelookingglass.blogspot.com/

 

Tracey

Hello world!

Hello everyone involved in the 1912 project- sewing room cleared and ready to go

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